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Author: Tony Colangelo
Like so many others in my community, I use the Godox/Flashpoint flash systems. Not only do they offer a wide variety of flashes to cover different needs, they utilize a coordinated triggering system that allows all flashes within the Godox/Flashpoint family to be controlled by one trigger. One of the things that I’ve noticed in using these flashes though is that I ended up getting a very warm image. It is a little annoying but it’s usually a very quick fix to correct in post.
Recently, I stumbled across a video from my friend, Nathan Cool, who’s discovered that the additional warmth added to the shot is not caused by the flash but rather, by the trigger--specifically, the most recent version of the Godox/Flashpoint trigger (i.e., the Godox "X-Pro"/Flashpoint R2 Pro). Apparently, when the multiple contact pins in this trigger contact the counterpart pins in the camera's hotshoe, incorrect information is communicated to the camera, which then results in it making an inappropriate interpretation of the WB needs for the shot thus producing a very warm image. Nathan found that when he placed a “dumb” trigger (i.e., one that only has a single firing pin) into the camera's hotshoe, and then stacked his Godox/Flashpoint trigger into the hotshoe of the dumb trigger, the warmth issue simply went away.
So if you use a Godox "X-Pro"/Flashpoint "R2 Pro" trigger and you’ve been encountering flash exposures that are way too warm, then you can try any of the following:
Based on Nathan's findings, I’ve put into place another solution: I place a first-generation Godox/Flashpoint trigger (Godox X-1 or Flashpoint R2) into my camera’s hotshoe and I physically carry with me, the second-generation trigger, which I use to "communicate" with multiple flashes. This enables me to change power levels on any flash I'm using, without having to go back to my camera to make that change (I got this set-up from my friend, Amir Neshati). Anyway, within the the first-generation trigger, is a programmable "custom-function" that allows you to deactivate all contact pins other than the firing pin. If you want to use this trigger set-up, then on your Godox X-1 or Flashpoint R2 trigger, go to "Custom Function 01" and use the selection wheel to turn “on” the single pin feature.
In any case, thanks to my colleague, Nathan Cool, for highlighting this issue and the multiple solutions to address it.
Tony Colangelo is a residential and commercial photographer, as well as a
I also use Godox triggers and flashes.
I started with the FT16 triggers and then moved to the Flashpoint R2.
I have not seen the WB shift but I encountered another problem with the trigger when using my EOS R.
When used with my 5D mkIII ir mkIV i had no issues. When I mounted it on the R I noticed that it seemed to switch the ISO to Auto unbidden. With some testing I realized it was the trigger ( I had thought it was an early adopter bug with the R). However there are no firmware updates for the trigger so I reverted to the FT16s.
I recently switched to the Godox X2T trigger and have seen no shifts though now that I am alerted I will keep my eyes peeled.
I really do not take advantage of the groups feature as I have either very few lights to manage or so many I can't keep track of them.
What I like vs the R2 pro is that it has a hotshoe on top should I wish to mount a flash or another trigger.
So far the trigger is reliable over quite a distance.
WRT the WB shift it seems a perfect candidate for a firmware update; Something I appreciate to extend the life of good gear as the camera it's mounted on changes.
I have the Godox XT32C trigger and I thought it was just brightening my live view once a day, but if it was really putting my camera into auto then that's another issue entirely. My FT16 trigger was flawless, so I guess this means I will be switching back again.
I have definitely had issues with a warm cast with my X-Pro used in combo with my AD200 Pro. Until I saw Nathan's video, I had assumed it was the AD200 and I was correcting the color temperature in post. I just received a one-contact adapter that I will place between the hot shoe on my 5D IV and the trigger. I found it on Amazon for $8.99. Info is below. I have not tried but am pretty sure that will solve the issue until Godox comes up with a firmware update.
JJC Standard Hot Shoe Adapter with Extra PC sync Connection Port & 3.5mm Mini Phone Connection Port for Connecting Cameras to Additional Off-Camera Flash,Studio Light,Strobes or Other Accessories
Hey,
I did the same thing. After tweaking the JJC adapter a bit I managed to get it to make contact with the Xpro-S. WB was no longer an issue. The problem is; You lose all other capabilities other than Manual mode (which is fine... to a point). With my Sony A7 iii, I cannot go any higher than 1/160 shutter speed. If I do so, I get black bar on top due to the rear curtain. I know it doesn't seem much but before I could go to 1/250 (while still getting full power on the flash) or over it with less power on the flash.
This is big pain and it needs to be fixed asap. It has been too long!!!
After I watched Nathan's video, I immediately did a test and sure enough my WB was way off when using another trigger. Went to my local camera store and got a PC hot shoe adapter and all is right again. Having used it on a real shoot, but looking forward to less headaach!
Oops, meant to say my WB was way off using the R2 trigger and back to good when using it with the adapter.
I have been scratching my head over this one for quite some time. X-Pro and AD200 way too warm. Larry can you let us know how you get on with the Hot Shoe Adapter?
I bought the Canon 5DIV when it was released and immediately noticed this problem. Fortunately, I also figured out the the hack right away. I complained to Adorama/Flashpoint and had no luck, so I believed the hack was the only long term solution....but guess what has been finally released? Yep...a Flashpoint R2 SP (single pin transceiver). Long overdue!
Bravo to Nathan Cool for bringing this issue to our attention. I bet there's A LOT of us here who use Godox strobes and triggers! It was one of those issues I have but never really noticed the problem—I always correct WB in post, but if I didn't have to it would certainly save a lot of time.
I'm using the EOS R and the X Pro trigger for Canon.
Shooting tomorrow with single pin adapter and will report back.
I use a Yongnuo set up, but another work around may be to take the commander off of the camera and use a dumb trigger instead.
I have a RF-605 in the hot shoe and keep the 560TX commander with me to adjust the speedlights. Since I use a CamRanger, I'm often away from the camera when making images. Is there a simple trigger for the Godox system? I rarely stack things on the camera hot shoe. One wrong move and I have to send the camera back for repairs. I sometimes stack a speedlight on top if I want a little bit of back fill but I'll remove it as soon as I have the image.
Another method of insulating the control pins is to use Kapton tape. It's a very thin translucent orange tape used in electronics and aerospace. It's nowhere near as gummy as electrical tape and isn't hard to get off. Any residue can be wiped off with a little rubbing alcohol. It should be hard to find a roll of 1/2" (12mm) Kapton tape for a fiver on eBay. One roll would last for years.
I like Nathan's approach of using a non-compatible commander, but that is a problem if you do want the TTL capability for other work. You could buy one of each and always have a non-ttl spare, but that takes money out of the tilt-shift lens budget. When I see really cheap RF-605 triggers, I grab them and don't worry whether they are for Nikon or Canon. I have Canon models that will give me the remote shutter capability so it's not an issue.
I meant to say that finding the Kapton tape SHOULDN'T be hard to find.
I picked up the Flashpoint R2 SP Single Pin Transceiver from Adorama and it took care of the problem. No more adjusting white light in post anymore!
My question is this just a problem for canon and Nikon users ...what about Sony godox users?
I never have any problems and have been using the same triggers for the past 15 years. My set went dead, and I bought another set. RF-603's baby. It amazes me how my six buck chuck triggers never have given me a single problem while all these "new and improved" triggers do have issues.
Seriously though, if you look at question boards I would surmise a good 20% of the questions are trigger related. People need to get less complicated, not more.
I believe there is a custom setting in the trigger menu to force the trigger to operate in single-pin mode (which consequently means no HSS or TTL, not that most of us rely on either for this type of work). However, I have not tested that as a means to correct the white-balance issue.
i agree with andrew 603’s have been flawless and amazing since i bought them ... used them with my old NFlashes since the triggers for those were cheap and unreliable and now use them with Orlit 610 and a smaller rover unit ... the orlit transmitter i have is fun and looks like a profoto but like others i need to change power always from camera and the orlit trigger won’t allow you to do that unless your on the trigger so my 603s allow me to shoot normally and change power on the unit itself always in hand ... super easy... i have not had any white balance issues with my systems either only occasionally with auto WB from camera and usually i’m too lazy to go get a gel to correct so i just fix in post and it always snaps to correct WB easily...
i think if i was you all... i would eitherbcarry thebtrigger as some do in hand if your doing multi flash and ambient comps or just use a 603 on the horshoe or something and attach the trigger on top of the dumb trigger but the low headroom of the 603s are really an advantage too ... much easier to get closer to walls sand door jambs etc in vertical and less to worry about when heading down basement stairs etc
@Brandon-
Well, the manual says this is possible, but I just did a test and it didn't matter. Put on the PC single pin adapter and WB was much better.
I started in photography with second-hand material. Having flashes and triggers of different brands was normal and I got used to single-pin and PC cables. That made my workflow to use manual values and not shoot in TTL. I may lose flexibility but I think I gain consistency, in my opinion.
I also enjoyed Nathan's video sharing that moment of exaltation that happens when you discover where the problem is.
I am still struggling with this.
I have tried 2 x adaptors, and when they worked, WB was good, but I cannot get them to keep contact - the trigger loses power and turns off. I have to unassemble it to get it to work again.
I have found that the orange hue is worse with the AD200PRO. It is less with the AD200 but still there / same trigger
Can we as an industry tell Godox we need a recall? @brandoncooper ?
Can you give me more info about the 603s you are speaking about, and would they work with the AD200?
@Tammy, The Yongnuo triggers should work with the AD200 as dumb triggers (you can't change settings on the flash remotely with them). I don't have an AD200. Do they have a sync jack on them? You would need the cable to fit if you aren't using the light with the remote hot shoe mounted. My collection of short sync cables has been a life saver. I can connect my triggers to every flash I have and a few more besides.
I think the white balance shift is meant to be a feature. The camera sees what it thinks is a speedlight in the hotshoe and sets the white balance to accommodate that.
Another work around would be to set a specific white balance. 4500-4600k could be pretty close unless there isn't much light coming from outside. I assuming your are shooting in RAW so you would have total flexibility in post. If the WB is off across the interiors, you'd just select the whole batch in Lightroom and make a sync'd adjustment to all of them. You could also set a custom WB if you remember to do it and want to take a few minutes setting it up. Nothing is going to be perfect.
Thank you @Ken Brown I shall continue to endeavour...
@Ken Brown - thank you for your thoughtful reply. Without being a PITA if WB adjustment is a feature, then it is applicable in TTL mode. Turning off TTL and to Manual should override all flash/camera presets. Right? I am really upset that this setup causes problems - am I alone? The difference is vivid - how do I upload photos?
@Tammy, It's a little tongue and cheek to call a bug a feature. It's a running joke in the software world. That said, it might be something your camera is doing on purpose. I was having to work around something with my Camranger until Dave (at CR) mentioned to me about checking an obscure setting on my camera buried at the lowest menu level that fixed the issue. When I looked the function up in the manual, it didn't mention that turning the setting off would do trick. I can't remember what it is now since it solved my problem and didn't affect anything else. I'll have to go back through my email and write up a Post-It note to stick in the manual in case it comes up again.
I'd be happy to talk with you to find a work around if you like. I'm on the West coast, BTW.
Sony camera with Xpro trigger has nasty a yellow and green cast, it's difficult to get rid of. Because the amount of color cast is varied, it cannot set a preset to handle all the color cast.
The only way to get it right is to set color temperature to 5500k. But to switch temperature back and forth is troublesome, even if you set it to one of the custom modes. Sony doesn't allow you to set color temperature on a memory recalled button, this is ridiculous.
Sorry if I'm late to the party. I use a Godox X1 trigger on a Nikon D4 and found if I turn the focus assist light off in the trigger menu the WB issue was resolved and unlike the single pin option still allows TTL and HSS. I hope this helps.
Godox X1T S (Sony) it would be Fn 10 - [ -- OFF | 01 ON]