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Lightroom Enfuse Tutorial

Published: 10/09/2008
By: larry

I've posted a Lightroom Enfuse video that shows some basics of using Tim Armes LR/Enfuse from Lightroom 2.What I wanted to demonstrate with this screen capture video is how to do the same thing as my Sky Masking Video shows with a lot less work. I think the results are better with Enfuse. After you start the video, be sure to click on the little full screen control button in the lower right corner of the video window. This will cause the video to expand to fill your screen and allow you to see the details much better.

6 comments on “Lightroom Enfuse Tutorial”

  1. Great tutorial Larry. Now I can put a voice to your face! So besides being convenient that it works in LightRoom I don't see any real advantage to buying it since I already have Bracketeer which allows me to include or not include images used for the blend. It also allows me to make changes with sliders and see a preview before I start the blending process.

    The problem I have with all these processes is that when I blend an interior with bright windows the edges of the windows become "muddy" looking and boy that really bugs me! I'd pay lots of money to someone who can correct that situation! Here is an example of "muddy" windows:

    And here is a nice example by Scott Hargis (by using flash) of very clean window slats (ok they are NOT called slats but I can't remember what the heck they're called). I am referring to the wood pieces IN the window.

  2. From what I've read on the website, Bracketeer looks like a Mac only application. Is that true?

    How would you rate Bracketeer compared to Photomatix?

    I also have a hard time relating the use of products like Bracketeer with Enfuse with Lightroom. I can't tell which is on first base (i.e., Light Room, Enfurse or Bracketeer). Please help me make sense of these relationships.

    I've used Photomatix for a long time with pretty wonderful results. However, I'm always looking for something better.

    My biggest problem with HDR imaging is color balance. Since it uses no flash::: In a typical room situation with large windows, the choice is obvious: natural light. However, when natural ambient light isn't as strong, the choice might be tungsten. Unfortunately, that makes views thru windows look too blue. So what's the better answer? I hope it's not just more post processing with Photoshop/etc.

    Bottom Line: I believe in the future of HDR imaging. I want to keep on top of the best software products to develop great RE images. Sometimes, nothing artificially added (i.e. no flash) is the best choice.

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