Comments on: Tutorial On How To Light a Room - By Scott Hargis http://photographyforrealestate.net/2007/05/21/tutorial-on-how-to-light-a-room-by-scott-hargis/ Tips and Techniques for Real Estate Photography Fri, 29 Aug 2008 18:35:54 +0000 http://wordpress.org/?v=2.3.1 By: Leonard http://photographyforrealestate.net/2007/05/21/tutorial-on-how-to-light-a-room-by-scott-hargis/#comment-6853 Leonard Sun, 20 Jul 2008 04:37:25 +0000 http://photographyforrealestate.net/2007/05/21/tutorial-on-how-to-light-a-room-by-scott-hargis/#comment-6853 I am a creative, fine art,street shooter photographer looking to break into this market. Rather then forking out $$$ for a bunch of 580EXII for my Canon 5D, can you suggest a flash setup/kit that would be more than adequate, but affordable to do a shoot that you described? I am a creative, fine art,street shooter photographer looking to break into this market. Rather then forking out $$$ for a bunch of 580EXII for my Canon 5D, can you suggest a flash setup/kit that would be more than adequate, but affordable to do a shoot that you described?

]]> By: Michael http://photographyforrealestate.net/2007/05/21/tutorial-on-how-to-light-a-room-by-scott-hargis/#comment-506 Michael Sun, 03 Jun 2007 21:16:58 +0000 http://photographyforrealestate.net/2007/05/21/tutorial-on-how-to-light-a-room-by-scott-hargis/#comment-506 I like the tutorial for one aspect... It does the "step by step evolution" of lighting and what does it to the scene. When I use light I do pretty much the same thing but I use the bees. Spotting the "black holes" it's easy especially if you are shooting to a laptop. I'm not too keen about the Vivitars or Sunpaks, they use tons of batteries if you are using them every day and if you buy quantum batteries for them, you end by paying what would you pay normally for a smaller bee. And you can’t remote adjust them, remote adjusting saves tons of time, especially if you are alone there… Back to the image presented, I assume it's just a "demo" shot, right? I don’t want to offend anyone; I would just like to comment a bit the image. Smoothing the shadows would help the final image, some shadows are very harsh there. Also, a better composition would help alot... just a few quick points: - This living room is outstanding by the cathedral ceilings it features, right? Then Why don’t we really show them, with a portrait shot? I would compose the image the way the couch would angle in the left lower corner and the upper room in the right upper one. That would give a complete high ceilings look. If you do have a TS24 in your arsenal, this would be the place to use it (assuming you shoot Canon) - I would shoot without the stereo crap on the right… Those elements are simply distracting, totally senseless for a Real Estate Shot. - Backing up the left corner coffetable a bit will remove of some “clutter” in the image, letting the viewer focus of the really important aspects of the interior: High ceilings, fireplace with chimney, staircase and relation with the upper level. - Watching for the “white holes” – reflections of flashes in high reflective surfaces… in this example… the pictureframe, or whatever that is, on the backwall. If there are no modifiers available… bounce, but bounce out of view…. Anything can be used as modifiers, and I know sometimes it looks awkward to work with diy modifiers especially when your clients are watching you. But hey… you’re the wizard, aren’t you? I like the tutorial for one aspect… It does the “step by step evolution” of lighting and what does it to the scene. When I use light I do pretty much the same thing but I use the bees. Spotting the “black holes” it’s easy especially if you are shooting to a laptop. I’m not too keen about the Vivitars or Sunpaks, they use tons of batteries if you are using them every day and if you buy quantum batteries for them, you end by paying what would you pay normally for a smaller bee. And you can’t remote adjust them, remote adjusting saves tons of time, especially if you are alone there…
Back to the image presented, I assume it’s just a “demo” shot, right?
I don’t want to offend anyone; I would just like to comment a bit the image.
Smoothing the shadows would help the final image, some shadows are very harsh there. Also, a better composition would help alot… just a few quick points:
- This living room is outstanding by the cathedral ceilings it features, right? Then Why don’t we really show them, with a portrait shot? I would compose the image the way the couch would angle in the left lower corner and the upper room in the right upper one. That would give a complete high ceilings look. If you do have a TS24 in your arsenal, this would be the place to use it (assuming you shoot Canon)
- I would shoot without the stereo crap on the right… Those elements are simply distracting, totally senseless for a Real Estate Shot.
- Backing up the left corner coffetable a bit will remove of some “clutter” in the image, letting the viewer focus of the really important aspects of the interior: High ceilings, fireplace with chimney, staircase and relation with the upper level.
- Watching for the “white holes” – reflections of flashes in high reflective surfaces… in this example… the pictureframe, or whatever that is, on the backwall.
If there are no modifiers available… bounce, but bounce out of view…. Anything can be used as modifiers, and I know sometimes it looks awkward to work with diy modifiers especially when your clients are watching you. But hey… you’re the wizard, aren’t you?

]]> By: Marc Lacoste http://photographyforrealestate.net/2007/05/21/tutorial-on-how-to-light-a-room-by-scott-hargis/#comment-504 Marc Lacoste Sun, 27 May 2007 14:12:10 +0000 http://photographyforrealestate.net/2007/05/21/tutorial-on-how-to-light-a-room-by-scott-hargis/#comment-504 Any electronic flash will work, but most of them doesn't have various manual settings (typically 1/1, 1/2, 1/4, 1/8, 1/16), only an automatic sensor. It is posible to get a full power burst constantly by hidding it, but it isn't very flexible. It could be a solution for an extra, but your main flashes ought to be variable. The cheapest solutions are Nikon SB-24s on eBay, but the strobist craze keep prices high (60€); or Sunpak 383 Super and vivitar 285s available new. Any electronic flash will work, but most of them doesn’t have various manual settings (typically 1/1, 1/2, 1/4, 1/8, 1/16), only an automatic sensor. It is posible to get a full power burst constantly by hidding it, but it isn’t very flexible. It could be a solution for an extra, but your main flashes ought to be variable. The cheapest solutions are Nikon SB-24s on eBay, but the strobist craze keep prices high (60€); or Sunpak 383 Super and vivitar 285s available new.

]]> By: Vince DeStefano http://photographyforrealestate.net/2007/05/21/tutorial-on-how-to-light-a-room-by-scott-hargis/#comment-502 Vince DeStefano Sun, 27 May 2007 08:21:29 +0000 http://photographyforrealestate.net/2007/05/21/tutorial-on-how-to-light-a-room-by-scott-hargis/#comment-502 Hi, Could you use any old flash to do this? or only the new model flashes. As I often see old flashes from film cameras on ebay for around $20-$30 Hi,
Could you use any old flash to do this? or only the new model flashes. As I often see old flashes from film cameras on ebay for around $20-$30

]]> By: James Northen http://photographyforrealestate.net/2007/05/21/tutorial-on-how-to-light-a-room-by-scott-hargis/#comment-505 James Northen Thu, 24 May 2007 02:18:59 +0000 http://photographyforrealestate.net/2007/05/21/tutorial-on-how-to-light-a-room-by-scott-hargis/#comment-505 Larry, They arrived today and I already dropped one with no problems at all. I was quite impressed with the battery life also and they are simple to operate. I used Pocket Wizards with them with no problems at all. They certainly fill in the holes nicely for me. Larry,
They arrived today and I already dropped one with no problems at all. I was quite impressed with the battery life also and they are simple to operate. I used Pocket Wizards with them with no problems at all. They certainly fill in the holes nicely for me.

]]> By: larrylohrman http://photographyforrealestate.net/2007/05/21/tutorial-on-how-to-light-a-room-by-scott-hargis/#comment-494 larrylohrman Wed, 23 May 2007 14:47:26 +0000 http://photographyforrealestate.net/2007/05/21/tutorial-on-how-to-light-a-room-by-scott-hargis/#comment-494 MJ, I like your idea of getting new Vivitar 285HVs. The look like they are a better choice than getting used Nikon SB-26s on Ebay and they are about the same price. The Vivitar appear to be simple and sturdy. MJ,
I like your idea of getting new Vivitar 285HVs. The look like they are a better choice than getting used Nikon SB-26s on Ebay and they are about the same price. The Vivitar appear to be simple and sturdy.

]]> By: James Northen http://photographyforrealestate.net/2007/05/21/tutorial-on-how-to-light-a-room-by-scott-hargis/#comment-493 James Northen Wed, 23 May 2007 13:27:44 +0000 http://photographyforrealestate.net/2007/05/21/tutorial-on-how-to-light-a-room-by-scott-hargis/#comment-493 Nice Tutorial Scott - as a I have just added 5 new Vivitar 285HVs to my Alien Bee mix. I was using Morris slaves but they were unpredictable sometimes. M. James Nice Tutorial Scott - as a I have just added 5 new Vivitar 285HVs to my Alien Bee mix. I was using Morris slaves but they were unpredictable sometimes.

M. James

]]> By: Scott Hargis http://photographyforrealestate.net/2007/05/21/tutorial-on-how-to-light-a-room-by-scott-hargis/#comment-498 Scott Hargis Wed, 23 May 2007 06:12:19 +0000 http://photographyforrealestate.net/2007/05/21/tutorial-on-how-to-light-a-room-by-scott-hargis/#comment-498 Adam - I'd be very reluctant to go with CLS for architectural work because of the frequent need to place flashes in remote locations on set. CLS is designed primarily for line-of-sight transmission of the signal and really gets difficult to use when you're trying to trigger a flash that's around a corner in another room, or behind a couch. Dark painted walls especially wreak havoc with the Nikon system. The great advantage, of course, is that you can adjust the power settings of each flash without leaving your shooting position, which is really a boon. But in my experience, you end up running around anyway, making minute adjustments to the position of each flash, hoping to get the IR signal to work. Adam - I’d be very reluctant to go with CLS for architectural work because of the frequent need to place flashes in remote locations on set. CLS is designed primarily for line-of-sight transmission of the signal and really gets difficult to use when you’re trying to trigger a flash that’s around a corner in another room, or behind a couch. Dark painted walls especially wreak havoc with the Nikon system.

The great advantage, of course, is that you can adjust the power settings of each flash without leaving your shooting position, which is really a boon. But in my experience, you end up running around anyway, making minute adjustments to the position of each flash, hoping to get the IR signal to work.

]]> By: tedbarrow http://photographyforrealestate.net/2007/05/21/tutorial-on-how-to-light-a-room-by-scott-hargis/#comment-503 tedbarrow Tue, 22 May 2007 18:44:58 +0000 http://photographyforrealestate.net/2007/05/21/tutorial-on-how-to-light-a-room-by-scott-hargis/#comment-503 Great tutorial Scott. Looking forward to Chaper 2. Kitchens Great tutorial Scott. Looking forward to Chaper 2. Kitchens

]]> By: Adam Maurer http://photographyforrealestate.net/2007/05/21/tutorial-on-how-to-light-a-room-by-scott-hargis/#comment-495 Adam Maurer Tue, 22 May 2007 15:43:30 +0000 http://photographyforrealestate.net/2007/05/21/tutorial-on-how-to-light-a-room-by-scott-hargis/#comment-495 At the risk of pointing out something already known to shooters here... One advantage that the Nikon CLS (Creative Lighting System) offers, is the ability to trigger multiple slave flashes. So, if you have a D70S, D200 etc body, you can use the inbuilt flash to trigger off external speedlights. In this mode, the inbuilt flash does not contribute to lighting the scene... it just triggers the slaves. Alternatively, if you have an SB800 speedlight on your body, you can use that to remote command other slaves, and it helps illuminate the scene as well. This avoids the need for any remote flash control systems, and each speedlight can be assigned to a separate channel with different settings. $0.03 At the risk of pointing out something already known to shooters here…

One advantage that the Nikon CLS (Creative Lighting System) offers, is the ability to trigger multiple slave flashes. So, if you have a D70S, D200 etc body, you can use the inbuilt flash to trigger off external speedlights. In this mode, the inbuilt flash does not contribute to lighting the scene… it just triggers the slaves.

Alternatively, if you have an SB800 speedlight on your body, you can use that to remote command other slaves, and it helps illuminate the scene as well.

This avoids the need for any remote flash control systems, and each speedlight can be assigned to a separate channel with different settings.

$0.03

]]>