Comments on: How to Add Zap to Your Images http://photographyforrealestate.net/2006/10/22/how-to-add-zap-to-your-images/ Helping Real Estate Photographers Be Successful Sun, 12 Feb 2012 04:10:07 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.3.1 By: wasserman http://photographyforrealestate.net/2006/10/22/how-to-add-zap-to-your-images/comment-page-1/#comment-35 wasserman Thu, 09 Nov 2006 02:25:50 +0000 http://photographyforrealestate.info/?p=8#comment-35 Regarding Raw...It does take longer but I feel comfortable using Raw...Setting for Nikon Indoor F8 4 speed 400 ...nice M Outside F16 250 200 M...It really works and gives a beautiful blue sky and clouds... Regarding Raw…It does take longer but I feel comfortable using Raw…Setting for Nikon Indoor F8 4 speed 400 …nice M
Outside F16 250 200 M…It really works and gives a beautiful blue sky and clouds…

]]> By: To RAW or Not to RAW? « Photography For Real Estate http://photographyforrealestate.net/2006/10/22/how-to-add-zap-to-your-images/comment-page-1/#comment-36 To RAW or Not to RAW? « Photography For Real Estate Wed, 25 Oct 2006 04:57:56 +0000 http://photographyforrealestate.info/?p=8#comment-36 [...] How to Add Zap to Your Images [...] [...] How to Add Zap to Your Images [...]

]]> By: Marc Lacoste http://photographyforrealestate.net/2006/10/22/how-to-add-zap-to-your-images/comment-page-1/#comment-34 Marc Lacoste Mon, 23 Oct 2006 15:34:38 +0000 http://photographyforrealestate.info/?p=8#comment-34 I don't shoot RAW because it slows down my workflow too much. I even shoot in mid-res, not the full because the extra information is marginal since we use bayer sensors, it's faster to move smaller files and 3 MPix is more than enough. Similarly, I don't use Photoshop (described in French as "usine à gaz"), but image viewers - ACDsee, Irfanview or whatever. For myself, XNview. The same thing can be done with gamma/luminosity/contrast controls. Even automatically: the software tries to expand the histogram. White Balance adjustments is fast, too. Remember: substracting a primary RGB color adds its opposite. Lowering the blue channel pops a cosy, yellow cast (red != Cyan and green != violet). Those operation can be done in a batch. You can save the original files apart, but I don't even care. If it have to be adjusted, it is better done once forever. We aren't making art and saving photos for the eternity, we're helping selling houses in the next months. See http://kenrockwell.com/nikon/d200/quality-settings.htm I don’t shoot RAW because it slows down my workflow too much. I even shoot in mid-res, not the full because the extra information is marginal since we use bayer sensors, it’s faster to move smaller files and 3 MPix is more than enough.

Similarly, I don’t use Photoshop (described in French as “usine à gaz”), but image viewers – ACDsee, Irfanview or whatever. For myself, XNview. The same thing can be done with gamma/luminosity/contrast controls. Even automatically: the software tries to expand the histogram.

White Balance adjustments is fast, too. Remember: substracting a primary RGB color adds its opposite. Lowering the blue channel pops a cosy, yellow cast (red != Cyan and green != violet).

Those operation can be done in a batch. You can save the original files apart, but I don’t even care. If it have to be adjusted, it is better done once forever. We aren’t making art and saving photos for the eternity, we’re helping selling houses in the next months.

See http://kenrockwell.com/nikon/d200/quality-settings.htm

]]> By: Geoff Wilson http://photographyforrealestate.net/2006/10/22/how-to-add-zap-to-your-images/comment-page-1/#comment-33 Geoff Wilson Mon, 23 Oct 2006 04:44:45 +0000 http://photographyforrealestate.info/?p=8#comment-33 If you aren't shooting in RAW, you can get a similar effect using a Curves adjustment layer. Add a Curves layer, and then set a simple S-curve in the curves box. You can then dial the effect in using the oppacity slider for the layer. If you want more intensity, either make a more aggresive S-curve, or duplicate the layer. The good thing about using layers is that it is non-destructive and can be changed after it is applied. If you aren’t shooting in RAW, you can get a similar effect using a Curves adjustment layer.

Add a Curves layer, and then set a simple S-curve in the curves box. You can then dial the effect in using the oppacity slider for the layer. If you want more intensity, either make a more aggresive S-curve, or duplicate the layer.

The good thing about using layers is that it is non-destructive and can be changed after it is applied.

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